fashion history

Japanese Beauty

Beauty Standards in Ancient Japanese History

Beauty standards across time vary enormously, as does the degree to which they emphasize qualities that never appear in nature. For instance, in recent decades in American culture, having perfectly straight and dazzling white teeth have signified health and high social status. In much of Japan’s history, it was the exact opposite.Here you see an

Beauty Standards in Ancient Japanese History Read More »

Painting 1

Renaissance Italy’s Competition of Power Through Jewelry

Renaissance Italy’s wealthiest groups competed for power in many ways, amongst them through women’s jewelry. It was a complex Game-of-Thrones-esque time, when many different ambitions came into play — the moralizing Franciscans who preached against conspicuous displays of wealth, the male merchants who often vied with the nobles for political control, and the elite women

Renaissance Italy’s Competition of Power Through Jewelry Read More »

Bicycle riding, bicycle face, and bicycle fears for Victorian ladies

In the late 1800s, Victorian values had made many folks worried — VERY WORRIED — about girls and women partaking in a new trend. Medical doctors and many Victorian-influenced bourgeoisie thought this new pastime would make them unhealthy, lusty (a bad thing, in their minds), or even UGLY. The name of the new trend? Bicycle

Bicycle riding, bicycle face, and bicycle fears for Victorian ladies Read More »

earliest human fiber

Dzudzuana Cave, human fabric, and skin lice

We hairless humans have been wearing clothing for a long, long time, but exactly when is hard to tell — paintings, statues, or fabrics that give evidence of our garb only appear long after scientists think we started dressing. A paper published by Toups et al. in the journal _Molecular Biology and Evolution_ in 2011

Dzudzuana Cave, human fabric, and skin lice Read More »

Queen Elizabeth I

Venetian Ceruse in European Aristocratic Life

We’ve all heard about the toxic use of lead in cosmetics in history: it whitened the skin, which aristocrats from Ancient Roman times well into the 1800s thought was a good look. Of course, it also poisoned the users. The Early Modern employment of “Venetian Ceruse” was particularly popular, and was a combination of lead,

Venetian Ceruse in European Aristocratic Life Read More »

a chainmail cape

Bishop’s Mantle

This unusual garment is called a “Bishop’s Mantle,” because of its similarity to the robes worn by such clergymen, but if you look closely, you’ll see it’s made up of linked chains — and is actually armor.   In fact, it probably was only dubbed a “Bishop’s Mantle” by 19th-century antiquarians, and we might think

Bishop’s Mantle Read More »

Indigo Dye

It’s pleasant, from where I write this post in my ice-bitten and wintery grey state of Pennsylvania, to look at this lovely plant. Here is _Indigofera tinctoria_ the most important plant to make the dye colored indigo — a color that meant beauty to some, but misery to many others.   Indigo is one of

Indigo Dye Read More »

black and white photo of a person in traditional dress on the back of a horse

The Hutsuls

The Carpathian Mountains in Western Ukraine are some of the traditional homelands of the Hutsul peoples. Although their roots extend back hundreds of years, the term “Hutsul” first appears in written sources in 1816, when it was used by outsiders — in fact, the term’s etymology, although uncertain, might derive from the critical words for

The Hutsuls Read More »

close up of green embroidery using green beetle shells

Details of Indian Textiles

India’s textile production was perhaps the most internationally renowned from the Early Modern period through the Age of Industrialization. Here you see a fantastically detailed embroidered section of a woman’s dress from the 19th century. It is made of cotton muslin and gilded silver wire and — wait for it — beetles’ wings! Fan-cy! Sources:

Details of Indian Textiles Read More »

Visard One

The Visard, an Early Modern Woman’s Facemask

Masking women’s faces across history has a common denominator — the practice focuses on how society monitors female sexuality, and shows how often a woman’s place in society was equated with her sexuality. The creepy face mask known as a “Visard” in Early Modern Europe is a case in point. This French painting from 1581

The Visard, an Early Modern Woman’s Facemask Read More »