fashion history

Conques

Sainte Foy and the Heist by the Monks of Conques

One of the most entertaining saints in the biz, Sainte Foy was known as the trickster saint (a reliquary holding some of her remains is on the second slide). She had all the usual chops to star in a holy cult centered around her: allegedly killed by Romans when she refused to do pagan sacrifices, […]

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Book of Curtesye

“The Book of Curtesye” and Being a Young Male in Medieval Times

Lots of fancy outfits featured here in this Late Medieval illumination of a feast — but take a look at the dudes, especially. Being an aristocratic male meant that you had to juggle the attributes of a military knight skilled in the art of appropriate murderous violence with the finesse of a metosexual able to

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Osterby Head

Early Middle Ages and Barbarian Men’s Hairstyles

This week, I am looking at hair in Medieval history, and I am starting with the dudes. It turns out that the barbarians of the Early Middle Ages cared a great deal about styling their locks. Careful attention to cut and style announced a “je ne sais quoi” about masculenity and power.For instance, featured in

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The Trouble of Medieval Women’s Hair

Women’s hair troubled Medieval men. In art and literature, they loved to show women with long unbound tresses, even though in real life, married women usually bound their hair up or wore veils to cover it when they were in public (unless they were mourning, as I wrote about in yesterday’s post).Two types of women

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Ruth Bader Ginsburg

Ruth Bader Ginsburg and Her Judicial Collars

This week, I am teaming up to do a crossover-post series on fashion statements that made history with my friend (and former student) Katie McGowan! (@katiemaecrochet ) Following is her write-up featuring Ruth Bader Ginsburg’s “Dissent” collar.Fashion can be used to express opinions, and no one did that more effectively than the late Supreme Court Justice,

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Richard Nixon and His Grey Suit

In the second cross-over post for the week, I bring you an analysis of President Nixon’s gray suit that helped him lose the 1960 election to JFK. Katie McGowan wrote up this fashion decision that influenced history:America’s first Presidential debate in 1960 was unprecedented in many ways, but perhaps most importantly for giving live faces

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Hatshepsut

Queen Hatshepsut and Drag

In this third crossover history post on “fashion statements that made history” with Katie McGowan, I feature one of the most famous beards in history, worn by the Pharoh Hatshepsut, which means “foremost of women.” Yep, you read that right: Hatshepsut dressed in drag.Hatshepsut (c. 1503-1482 BCE) had been wedded to the powerful ruler Thutmose

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Joan of Arc – “The Maid of Orleans”

On our third crossover post in “fashion statements that made history” with myself and Katie McGowan, I am featuring Joan of Arc and her male attire for battle.Jeanne d’Arc, aka “the Maid of Orleans,” was highly conscientious about the way gender played into her self-perception as the military leader chosen by God to lead the

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Extravagance of Sultan Caftans of the Ottoman Empire

In the final crossover post this week in “fashion decisions that made history,” by Katie McGowan and myself, I am featuring the fabulously intricate imperial robes called _caftans_ worn by the Sultans of the Ottoman Empire.In the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, the Ottoman Dynasty governed an area around Anatolia (modern Turkey and environs), controlling some

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Vera Tiesler

Ancient Mayan Skull Shaping

The Ancient Maya idea of beauty differed radically from our own, as evidence from art and human bones show. Shown here is medical anthropologist Vera Tiesler, who has examined thousands of bones from the Maya Classical Era (250-900 CE) and found fascinating patterns in the practice of skull-shaping.The Maya used stiff boards to flatten their

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Japanese Beauty

Beauty Standards in Ancient Japanese History

Beauty standards across time vary enormously, as does the degree to which they emphasize qualities that never appear in nature. For instance, in recent decades in American culture, having perfectly straight and dazzling white teeth have signified health and high social status. In much of Japan’s history, it was the exact opposite.Here you see an

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Painting 1

Renaissance Italy’s Competition of Power Through Jewelry

Renaissance Italy’s wealthiest groups competed for power in many ways, amongst them through women’s jewelry. It was a complex Game-of-Thrones-esque time, when many different ambitions came into play — the moralizing Franciscans who preached against conspicuous displays of wealth, the male merchants who often vied with the nobles for political control, and the elite women

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Bicycle riding, bicycle face, and bicycle fears for Victorian ladies

In the late 1800s, Victorian values had made many folks worried — VERY WORRIED — about girls and women partaking in a new trend. Medical doctors and many Victorian-influenced bourgeoisie thought this new pastime would make them unhealthy, lusty (a bad thing, in their minds), or even UGLY. The name of the new trend? Bicycle

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earliest human fiber

Dzudzuana Cave, human fabric, and skin lice

We hairless humans have been wearing clothing for a long, long time, but exactly when is hard to tell — paintings, statues, or fabrics that give evidence of our garb only appear long after scientists think we started dressing. A paper published by Toups et al. in the journal _Molecular Biology and Evolution_ in 2011

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Queen Elizabeth I

Venetian Ceruse in European Aristocratic Life

We’ve all heard about the toxic use of lead in cosmetics in history: it whitened the skin, which aristocrats from Ancient Roman times well into the 1800s thought was a good look. Of course, it also poisoned the users. The Early Modern employment of “Venetian Ceruse” was particularly popular, and was a combination of lead,

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a chainmail cape

Bishop’s Mantle

This unusual garment is called a “Bishop’s Mantle,” because of its similarity to the robes worn by such clergymen, but if you look closely, you’ll see it’s made up of linked chains — and is actually armor.   In fact, it probably was only dubbed a “Bishop’s Mantle” by 19th-century antiquarians, and we might think

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Indigo Dye

It’s pleasant, from where I write this post in my ice-bitten and wintery grey state of Pennsylvania, to look at this lovely plant. Here is _Indigofera tinctoria_ the most important plant to make the dye colored indigo — a color that meant beauty to some, but misery to many others.   Indigo is one of

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